I thought it’d be nice to go back to the basics for people who are looking into getting into polymer clay. I want this blog to be a space where I can provide some guidance, as well as share my work with you in a more open format.
With that said, I thought it’d be nice to break down this week’s blog post into thirteen things you should know about polymer clay. This will be geared more towards beginners, but hopefully everyone can gain a little insight from this. I tried to create this list in a manner of things to know as you’re working through the whole process from mixing up your colors to applying glaze.
1. Polymer clay needs an oven
I know, I know, this one may be a little obvious, but before I started working with clay, I didn’t know about all the different types of clay and what made one need an oven, kiln, or air to harden. If you don’t have an oven or you don’t have an oven you’re willing to use for polymer clay, consider using air dry clay as an alternative.
2. Conditioning polymer clay is a must
Conditioning polymer clay is a process of softening the clay by working it in your hands. It’s an important step because it helps mix up the plasticisers and other substances so that it is evenly distributed through the clay. This helps prevent cracking later on. Plus, conditioning also makes the clay easier to work with.
3. There are several ways to color polymer clay
The most obvious one is mixing with colored clay. Polymer clay mixes up like paints; you can blend the colors to achieve something other than what you can buy. I used to keep black, white, brown, blue, red, and yellow clay on hand so I could mix up everything else, but I found that I didn’t achieve some of the colors I wanted that way. I’ve heard there are colors closer to cyan, magenta, and yellow in the premo line, but I haven’t picked up the right blue yet to see how these mix up.
Another way you can mix your own colors is with alcohol ink. This is best done with white or translucent clay. You can take a drop of the ink and mix it in with the clay, adding more drops (and drops of other colors) until you reach the desired color. I would recommend wearing gloves, however, as this gets pretty messy.
Pearl ex powders can also be used to mix colors of polymer clay. This is also best done with white or translucent clay. Keep in mind the pearl ex will make your clay shimmering, but it creates a pretty effect.
4. Your hands will be your most important tool
I had heard this from other polymer clay artists before, but I didn’t want to believe it when I was starting. My hands are particularly clumsy, so how was I supposed to make something so beautiful without smushing up the details?
Don’t get me wrong, I have a handful of tools that are always out on my work station because I use them all the time, but once you learn how to handle the clay, you’ll find this statement to be true. There’s a certain touch and grip you have to learn. I have a long ways to go, but I’m definitely recognizing it and appreciating it.
5. You can mix different brands of polymer clay
It’s true! For the longest time I used sculpey iii clay because everything else was too hard on my hands. While sculpey iii, for the most part, was an okay consistency, as I started developing a feel for handling the clay (like I mention in point 4), I realized it was way too soft. Now I mix a combination of premo and sculpey iii so I can get something that has a better consistency, and it’s certainly reflected in my work.
When it comes to baking, I haven’t had as much of a problem since sculpey iii and premo have the same baking temperature, but I’ve read that a good rule to use is to consider the parts of the brands you use and split the difference. For example, if you’re using one clay that bakes at 250 degrees F and another that bakes at 275 degrees F, and you used half and half, you’d split the difference in half and bake it at 263 degrees F or so (although my oven only moves in increments of 5, so I’d probably pick 265).
6. You can use rubbing alcohol to clean your pieces
This is one thing I really wished I would have known at the beginning as it’s one of my favorite tricks, ESPECIALLY with the dreaded white clay. I keep a bottle of rubbing alcohol and cotton balls by my work station so I can clean my hands and work space while I’m working. Once I’m done sculpting, I dip q-tips in rubbing alcohol and swab over problem areas on my piece (either places with some fuzz or other dirt, or with fingerprints) and the rubbing alcohol helps clean the clay up and smooth it over.
7. TLS is a friend
Translucent clay and TLS
TLS is great to use when you need a little extra bond or stability.TLS stands for translucent liquid sculpey and is a liquid polymer clay. It acts like a glue and cures in the oven like regular polymer clay. While I’ve only ever used TLS, there is a liquid fimo that seems to have even more applications than TLS.
Do you bake your piece multiple times so it keeps its shape while you’re sculpting? TLS is a friend. You can get unbaked clay to stick to baked clay, but your bond will be much better if you use a little (and I mean a little—too much and your pieces will slide) in between to “glue” the sections together.
8. Translucent clay can help you in a pinch
Bonus tip: translucent polymer clay is also magic. Besides its translucent effect, there are a couple of different ways I like to use the clay. First, it’s a nice way to help soften up clay. I’ve only used sculpey iii’s translucent for this though, so let me know in the comments if you have tried this with other brands. I think it works better than TLS too. For the most part it doesn’t really affect the color in the small amounts you’ll most likely need it to soften the clay, but definitely test it out first to make sure you aren’t straying too far away from the desired color.
Translucent clay also helps make your colors last a little longer. There were two separate instances in the last couple of weeks where I didn’t pay attention to how much of a color I had left. I didn’t quite have enough to finish my project, but I was close enough that I knew I could finish it by using small bits of TLS mixed with the color. It blends in with your existing color, and you get just a little more out of that color.
9. Invest in an oven thermometer
I didn’t want to either. It’s better than the alternative, however. I found mine at Walmart and so far it hasn’t led me astray.
You will need an oven that stays consistent and accurate with its temperature. If clay doesn’t stay hot enough for long enough, it won’t cure; if it gets too hot, your clay will burn. If your oven is spiking, you can get either of these situations. I’ve been fortunate with having a pretty consistent and accurate oven.
10. Clay needs to be supported while it bakes
This is the part that makes me the most anxious. I still struggle with the droop syndrome with polymer clay. It softens while it bakes (and doesn’t set up until it cools off), so if your piece doesn’t have the proper armature or support, you will lose shape during this process. Pieces can fall off. The parts that are usually a struggle for me are arms, wings, and tails (if you’re trying to make them go against gravity). Basically any chunk that is going upwards is game for drooping in the baking process. I’ve never had success with having a dragon turn out that didn’t have aluminum armature inside of it. I know there are people who are masters at it, but I do not possess this magic.
11. You can bake polymer clay multiple times
This is something I do if I’m worried about the integrity of a piece. I prebake my wings and stick them into the dragon before the dragon is baked. If I have a detail or position that I’m worried about lasting, I’ll prebake it and build on top of it. As long as you’re following the temperature on your package’s instructions (and you’ve checked to make sure your oven truly is that temperature), you can bake you clay multiple times and work in steps.
12. Sanding your piece after baking can further polish it
I don’t always sand my dragons, but as long as I haven’t treated the surface (pearl ex, paints, etc.), sanding is a good way to help provide an extra finish. You find a lot of artists who create jewelry will sand and buff their pieces to get that beautiful shine.
I plan on doing more of an in depth look at my sanding process later on, but in the meantime there are lots of great resources online. It’s important to wet sand polymer clay so that it keeps the dust at a minimum; your lungs will thank you! I would also not recommend sanding unless you plan to glaze your finished product or really buff out the sanding marks. Sand paper scratches up the surface, and this is visible with a slight color change (usually lighter than the rest of the clay). If you plan on moving to extremely fine grits and then buff it out, these won’t be noticeable. Glaze helps as well.
13. There are many things you can use to glaze your pieces
You don’t have to ONLY use sculpey glaze if you aren’t able to find it. I personally have been using Varathane polyurethane, and I’ve been so happy with how it turns out. I’ve used the sculpey glaze, and I’ve also tried triple thick. I know another sculptor who would use a spray on glaze to finish her pieces. It’s all going to depend on the look you want. The Blue Bottle Tree has an amazing article about the wonderful world of glazes.
Did you find any of these helpful? What is something YOU think people should know about polymer clay? I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!
Addition to point three… you can get all colors you want, if you mix the clay with chalk powder of any brand. I myself use Artist chalk, rub the amount of powder I need onto the clay and get all rainbow COLORS and more. Eben acrylic paint i already used to color my clay.
I have heard about that too! I’ve tried doing that before, but I found it hard to get a really deep color without the clay getting dried out. Did you have to add something to help keep it pliable? Or are you usually mixing up pastel colors only?
Thanks for the info! 🙂
Can you share some good brands of air dry clay? Cheers
Hi Catarina,
Sorry for the delay in responding! I’m afraid my experience with air dry clay is very limited. I have only used an air dry clay that I made using a recipe I found online, and one that I bought at Michael’s. I get freaked out by the limited work time of air dry clay, so I tend to avoid it, haha.
There are definitely people who have mastered working with air dry clay though–it comes down to personal preference. I would recommend finding creators who specialize in air dry clay or experiment with different brands to see what works best for you!
Best of luck on your clay adventure 🙂
Jessica
Thank you so much for condensing tips for working with clay! Although I knew most of them, I forget sometimes….I also am thanking you for publishing dome things that I didn’t lnow. Happy claying! Ruth
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for stopping by and letting me know you enjoyed the content! Much appreciated!
Any tips on rescuing older clay? Not fired just stiff.
Hi Judy!
If you are working with polymer clay, you can use liquid polymer clay to help soften it up and sort of “renew” older clay. I like squeezing some into a smaller amount of the clay (I like to start small since it’s usually a little harder to work with) and knead it in. It’s better to work up to the consistency you want because if you add too much then it’ll become too mushy and you may need to leach it.
One of the methods I used the most, however, to create the texture of clay I preferred working with, was adding Sculpey III translucent clay. It minimally effects the color and really softens out clay with a small amount. I realize everyone has their clay preferences though and some people prefer not mixing Sculpey III with their other brands of clay.
These are a couple of options. I hope they help!
Jessica
Very good article!
On the glazes, I’ve found that Sculpey glaze is not durable at all for those who want to wear their clay pieces. Even after 3 layers, the glaze flakes off. Americana brand is more durable and comes in a few different finishes.
Thank you for the insight! I’ve tried a couple of others after I wrote this post (triple thick and polyurethane). I think triple thick did okay on pieces, but it didn’t last very long in its jar. It started gooping up on me and became very hard to apply. I love working with the polyurethane though! I think that’s the kind I’ll stick to.
Hi and thank you for the blog! I’m just getting into clay and I just had a question about the baking multiple times… Couldn’t you just bake the piece longer and lower temperature to assure its dry?
Hi Marie!
The main reason to bake a piece multiple times is to “set” your work so you can build off of what you have created. If you have something you’re worried about getting ruined during the next stages of creation, doing a prebake helps save that progress. Polymer clay can be baked for longer times as long as the temperature stays correct. As far as the temperature is concerned, you would also have to be careful that the temperature isn’t lower than the recommended one, as that can mean that your clay won’t cure properly. It’s the combination of the right temperature plus the minimum correct amount of time that helps make sure your piece cures properly!
I hope that helps!
Jessica
I wanted to add that “clear nail polish” makes a fantastic almost glass like shine to finished pieces. Ive not even purchased the sculpey glaze for that reason. My fave is clear nail polish!
I haven’t personally tried clear nail polish, but I do know other people have had issues with nail polish eating away at the clay and turning it sticky–sometimes after some time too, making it hard to test–I think it depends on the brand of clay and the brand of nail polish.
What about using uv resin? I just took a jewelry class to make polymer clay jewelry and that’s what we used there
You could definitely use UV resin as a glaze! I just started using it recently myself. You can find a tutorial I just did a couple of weeks ago mixing the two: https://jsthreads.jessicaschloss.com/polymer-clay-ice-crystals/. It’s not jewelry, but the concept should still apply!
If your clay gets dried out from adding chalk color, how do you moisten it up? Can I use baby oil or mineral oil? I don’t want to waste my clay. I’m using Premoi Polymer Clay.
Hi Sarah,
For me personally, I tend to use translucent liquid Sculpey (TLS) to moisten my clay–it’s a liquid clay. However, one of my favorite informational clay YouTubers has a video talking about different ways to condition clay, so you could see if something here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31UQd5e3QzY.
I hope that helps!
Jessica
Can you use transparent nail polish as a glaze?
Hello Emma,
While I have not personally used nail polish myself, it was because I had read about how it can eat through the clay. So while I can’t personally recommend not using it, based on my own research, I do not recommend it. You can certainly give it a try! The problem ends up being that testing how glaze affects clay over time can take months.
I do recommend checking out this comprehensive guide by Blue Bottle Tree on what she found for different finishes: https://thebluebottletree.com/testing-polymer-clay-sealers/
I hope that helps!
Jessica
Were can i bay some. I am from South Africa
Hello Riana!
You can find polymer clay at craft stores and online. I like this resource, the Blue Bottle Tree, and they have a page all about buying polymer clay: https://thebluebottletree.com/how-to-buy-polymer-clay/
Hi & thanks for the helpful info (I’m a newbie). Is baked polymer clay very breakable? I expected it to be quite durable but I was able to easily snap a little saucer in half. Also, can a piece be painted (like with acrylic craft paint) before it’s baked?
Yes it is breakable! There are some brands that are a little more durable (fimo is known for being slightly flexible and more durable), but at the end of the day, polymer clay will be fragile. Sculpey III is supposed to be one of the least durable polymer clays. If you’re looking for something durable, you may want to look at casting resin sculptures.
And yes! Acrylic paint can go onto polymer clay before it goes into the oven.
I am a novice but very intrigued by the potential of polymer clay. I am a foodie but I see the great possibilities of creating polymer accents to be used in combination with Seagrass(a type of fiber made from grass) for food trays, serving bowl containers, etc. Thanks for your helpful tips. Where can I take classes for beginners here in Westlake, Ohio(a suburb of Cleveland)? Eventually, I would like to graduate into using metals with clay. Jewelry making also interests me. Thanks for any advice.
Thanks for sharing, Mjarina! That sounds very pretty, but I would be careful with mixing clay and food as polymer clay can be toxic. I can’t say for sure what air dry clay is, but that may be a better alternative. I’m on the other side of the country, so I can’t speak from personal reference, but you could try asking local craft stores if they offer classes, or if you have an arts center, they may do something as well!
Thanks for this information! I’m new to polymer clay and most of the information was new to me! I appreciate your insights.
I’m so glad to hear that, Bettye! Thanks for letting me know 🙂
maybe discuss experience with writing on clay with what types of ink, pens, markers? which bleed, which is most desirable in drawing designs on after baking, etc.?
have you discussed waterproof/weatherproof clay, which is discussed by jonni good? she introduces you to pal tiya clay that can stay outdoors. this was a bonus to me, wanting to create something for a headstone ornament for different seasons, but it could be for a garden or your front porch too!
Thanks for commenting, Glori! I appreciate your feedback 🙂
I’m new to clay so this information was helpful…thanks!
I’m so glad you found it helpful, Ron! I post lots of polymer clay tutorials on my blog too, so feel free to check those posts out! If there’s something else you’d like to know more about, please let me know!
Hope you’re having a wonderful Sunday!
I am waiting on my beginners pack to arrive. I am so new, I haven’t started yet. I am hoping to be able to create pictures with the polymer clay, somewhat like a lead-light panel. I was interested to read your comment about being able to rebake pieces after joining/adding on. I am hoping to create pieces that are textured and layered and combining them into an image that, ideally, will be somewhat impressionist when finished. I am sure I will have lots of questions and mistakes but that is how we learn.
Thank you so much for your article. I am looking forward to reading more.
Thank you for sharing, Robin, and welcome to the world of polymer clay! That sounds awesome! Yes, clay can be rebaked several times. One thing to watch out for is translucent clay in particular. It will start yellowing with a second bake, so that should be the last kind of color/technique to add, if possible. You may want to test lighter colors too to see if they change color after a few bakes as I’ve heard white clay can start changing colors.
Jessica
Hi I’m also very new to the art of polymer clay and struggle to pick the clay up without damaging the smoothness .can you please assist? On what surface do you have to roll the clay for best results.
Hi Connie!
You can work on a variety of surfaces. Some people use a tile that can also go into the oven–the tile stays cool so it helps keep the clay from getting too soft. I personally work on either my pizza stone (that I have used for baking) or just a large square fabric measure like https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Square-Acrylic-Ruler-187210-1001/dp/B005NAGD6W/ref=asc_df_B005NAGD6W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167123281189&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=380370852931970140&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033767&hvtargid=pla-309633016020&psc=1
Basically, if the surface is smooth, your clay will stay smooth.
I hope that helps!
Thanks for the helpful info. For years, I’ve been harboring this passionate desire to sculpt a bust of my husband, and I think I’ve finally mustered the courage to try it, so I’ve been scouring the net for resources.
I’m hoping my decision to use polymer will turn out to be the right choice. But if not, it surely won’t be the first time I’ve had to regroup and rethink a plan. 😉
I definitely welcome any advice…
Lylo
That sounds like a wonderful project! Depending on what kind of learner you are, it may be good to either dive right into this type of thing or experiment with polymer clay a little bit beforehand just to get a feel. Either way, you’ll definitely benefit from using aluminum foil as the core–it will keep the sculpture light, and you won’t need as much clay!
Would love to see what you end up creating,
Jessica
To use the pearl powder- do you dust it on before or after it’s baked?
Hi Adrienne! I think it’s easier to apply before it’s baked–you can brush it on and it sticks (although it still needs a protective glaze). I’ve also mixed it into glaze and painted it on after baking the clay, but that is usually more subtle.
I hope that helps!
Jessica
Hi I just bought a silicone mold and polyclay to make miniature succulents. How long after I unmold do I have before I need to bake them?
Hello Judi,
Polymer clay does not air dry–it needs heat to cure–so as long as you’re keeping it covered from dust, you can make a whole batch of succulents or other bits and pieces from clay and batch bake it all together!
Jessica
One important thing to know…… When you BUY your polymer clay, make sure you don’t leave it in your car if it’s hot outside! The inside temps in the car could bake it for you before you even get to use it, leaving you with 20 bricks of rock hard useless clay. Buy your clay as a last purchase of the day before you go home!
Oh no!!! That’s so unfortunate! Yes, it can definitely bake in the car. Thank you for sharing your experience, and I’m sorry to hear that happened!
Thank you so much for your helpful tips on using polymer clay! You answered a question I have had for a while – can polymer clay be painted with acrylic paint? I’m fairly new to polymer clay, but I’ve found it is quite pricey! So if I can paint my pieces, I won’t need to have so many colors. Thank you again!
It certainly can be! I definitely try to use Michael’s coupons when I purchase clay to help that buck go a little further, but I’m glad to hear you found this helpful! Paint is a great way to make colorful and detailed sculptures without having to have a lot of different colored clay on hand.
I smiled to myself when I read that hands are your most important tool. May I add that nails are the enemy. Having wrecked so many pieces with a nail I have now filed them down very considerably . Thin dentists gloves are a help and I’ve just tried using two thumb covers cut from the gloves for smoothing . Any tips on making moulds when you’ve made the perfect head?
Yesssss!! When I see people sculpting with their ginormous nails, I’m always amazed. Even my practically non-existent ones make such a mess haha! The thin gloves are a great tip! I’ve only dabbled in mold making a little bit, but for a 3D piece, your best bet will be looking into liquid silicone. You can make some really neat 2 part molds that can be cast and recast. I would definitely recommend checking out some tutorials for using liquid silicone mold maker on YouTube. I’ve only molded fairly flat pieces that weren’t completely surrounded in the mold maker.
Where can I buy the polymer clay? I tried buying it at amazon but what I got was a tiny bit of it and very expensive for what it is.
Hi Keishla,
It partially depends on where you live. I live in the U.S., and I’m also fortunate to live about 15 minutes away from a Michael’s. Since I don’t typically buy in bulk, I usually use a coupon and buy my clay there. Local craft stores are a great option because then you can feel the clay to see if it’s “fresher.”
I have only purchased clay from one online store, and that is Polymer Clay Express. The couple of times I used them, I had a fairly good experience.
One of my favorite clay resources is the Blue Bottle Tree, and they have a great page talking about other ways to buy clay, so I’m going to go ahead and refer you there since my online shopping experience is fairly limited when it comes to clay!
I hope that helps, and happy shopping 🙂
Jessica
Has anyone experienced their Polymer clay going sticky after painting with Acrylics. I have tried many makes of paint to see if it stops but still it goes sticky and reacts with the Plasticizer in the polymer clay. I found that using a Matte spray varnish stops the stickiness, but not for ever! anyone got any ideas about this.