Learn to Crochet class resources

This page is full of the resources I shared or referred to at my Learn to Crochet class at the Dahmen Barn on September 18. If you need to review what we went over or see the bonus videos, it will all be handy on this page!

Click a link below to navigate to the section you want to go to. Or, scroll down through this page; everything will be here in one handy place!

 

  1. Class handout
  2. Photo stitch guide
  3. Videos of stitches
  4. Beginner-friendly patterns we looked at in class
  5. Common beginner struggles
  6. Bonus: Video tutorials

 

Class handout

September 18, 2021 | 1–4 p.m. | Jessica Schloss

Things you’ll need for this class

  • Yarn; I like to use worsted weight yarn (4)
  •  5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle (or any needle that is sturdy/thick enough and has an eye to fit the yarn)

What to expect from this class

When you leave today, you should have a basic understanding of crochet. While there are lots of techniques and stitches that allow for crochet to be an extremely versatile skill, today we will only be focusing on crocheting in a row, in a single color, and in the most basic stitch. If time allows, we’ll dive into a couple of other basic stitches. 

Crochet stitches/terminology

  • Slip knot: The initial loop created to start a crochet project worked in rows
  • Yarn over (YO): Wrapping the yarn around your crochet hook
  • Chain (ch): An individual loop created by yarning over and pulling it through the loop on your hook 
  • Starting chain: The base strand that is created by looping a set number of chains together
  • Turning: Flipping your work over so you can continue working crochet rows in the same direction
  • Single crochet (sc): Most basic crochet stitch we’ll be focusing on today
  • Row: One linear row (from left to right or right to left; crocheting in one direction from the first stitch to the last is 1 row) 
  • Slip stitch (ss): Insert hook in next stitch, YO, pull through stitch and loop on hook
  • Finish: Slip stitch. Cut tail 3″ to 4″ long and pull tail through loop. Pull tightly.
  • Tail: The dangling strands of your yarn at the beginning and end of your project
  • Weave in ends: Threading the tails back and forth in stitches of your work to secure the beginning and end of your project
  • Gauge: A test swatch a pattern will call for when sizing is important. Typically says what stitch to use and then how many stitches wide by how many rows to get a certain size swatch. 

Great resources for more crochet (online)

  • Pinterest: patterns (free and paid), how-tos
  • Ravelry: a library of patterns (free and paid)—this is my go-to place when I’m trying to find a crochet pattern
  • YouTube: how-tos

If you’d like to learn more about yarn weight, here’s a blog post I wrote on the topic.

Videos of Stitches

Slip knot: how to start a crochet project

  1. With 3″ to 4″ of tail, fold your yarn and wrap around your index and middle finger. Use your thumb to hold in place.
  2. Continue wrapping yarn so you create a loop around your index and middle fingers.
  3. With the wrapped yarn now behind your created loop, push the yarn through the loop.
  4. Once you’ve pushed it through far enough, come back to the front of the loop start pulling the area of yarn you had pushed through the loop.
  5. Start pulling on the tail of your yarn to start forming the knot while also pulling the loop. Continue pulling until you have a loop with a knot at the base.
  6. Holding the knot, now pull the yarn end still attached to your skein. This should make your loop smaller.
  7. Continue pulling the yarn until the loop fits nicely around your hook.

 

Starting chain: your foundation row

  1. Insert hook through the loop of your slip knot.
  2. YO (wrap yarn around hook).
  3. Pull that wrapped yarn through the loop on your hook.
  4. You should now have 1 loop in addition to your starting loop.
  5. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until your starting chain is the length it needs to be.

When a pattern calls for chaining 20, always start your count with this first loop, not with the loop created with your slip knot.

Single crochet first row into starting chain

  1. Once you’ve chained the correct amount of loops, we will work backwards along the starting chain. You will always need to start with 1 loop already on your hook. Using the single crochet stitch can only happen once you’ve created a starting chain.
  2. With the last loop on your hook, skip the chain directly next to the loop on your hook and insert the hook into the 2nd one next to it.
  3. YO
  4. Pull that yarn through the chain only. There should now be 2 loops on your hook.
  5. YO
  6. Pull yarn through the 2 loops on your hook. Depending on your tension, you may need to hold the base of the stitches with your other hand to help pull the yarn through.1 single crochet stitch complete.
  7. Start next single crochet by inserting hook into next chain in your starting chain.
  8. Repeat steps 2-6 until you’ve stitched into every chain in the starting chain.

Turning your work: At end of every row after first row

  1. After you have single crocheted into the last stitch, you should have one loop on your hook.
  2. Keeping the hook and loop in the same orientation it currently is, flip your work over with your other hand so that you can stitch back across the row you just finished. The flip should twist at your chain, so your work will stay flat and untwisted.
  3. YO and pull through the loop on your hook. This is a chain (ch) 1.
  4. Work a single crochet into the first space and continue along the row until you reach the end.
  5. Repeat steps 2-4 until you’ve reached your desired length.

One thing to note: the number of chains added at the last stitch depends on what stitch you’re using. Chaining 1 is done for many stitches but not all. The pattern you use should indicate how many to chain. Not all stitches require starting the row in the very first stitch either. For a beginner, this is something you don’t need to worry about right now, but be aware that sometimes the first stitch is skipped. You do not skip it for single crochet.

Finishing: how to bind off your project once you’re done stitching

  1. Once you’ve reached the end of your last row, you should have 1 loop left on your hook from your final completed single crochet stitch.
  2. Cut your yarn so that you have at least a 4″ tail (when in doubt, make it longer).
  3. YO and pull tail through the loop (you can do this with either your hook or your fingers).
  4. Pull the tail to make the loop smaller. Continue pulling until it is a knot at the end of the row.

Weaving in ends

You will need a tapestry needle for this part.

  1. Thread your needle with the tail of the yarn.
  2. With the back of your work facing you, insert the needle into the last row of stitches.
  3. Wind the needle through several stitches until you’re at least an inch into your work. Pull the needle and yarn through so that it’s tight but not pulling in your work.
  4. I find it easier to turn my work here so that where my needle exited is closest to me. Insert your needle back into that same row, but 1 stitch closer to the end where you started than through the stitch where you just exited. This way, you’re not threading back through the same stitch and undoing your yarn.
  5. Weave your needle and yarn back through to the end of the row where you originally started. Pull the yarn through tightly, but not so tight it’s affecting how your stitches look.
  6. Now that you’ve weaved through one row, we’re going to weave into 1 more row for extra durability. Insert your needle through the post of a stitch to hide the tail while you move to the second row down.
  7. Pull the needle and yarn through tightly, but not so tightly that it affects how your stitch looks.
  8. Repeat steps 4–6 in the second row from the top.
  9. Pull the tail of your yarn tightly and trim the excess.

Beginner-friendly patterns from class

These are the patterns I had a single print out in class for all of us to look at. I wanted to show you what patterns looked like written up so you could start reading them. They are all listed here so you can refer to any of them to work on a project, or find your own! These are all free to use.

Common beginner struggles

These are some common things that can be an extra challenge while you’re learning how to crochet.

    1. Tension: You’ll most likely be tempted to pull the loops so tightly that you fight the yarn and your project the whole time.
    2. Straight edges: It’s common to see beginner projects with wavy edges on both the left and right sides of your project. This is why it’s so important to just practice rows of the stitch instead of worrying about a specific project. Part of it comes from tension, part is just learning how to do the stitch correctly. When I first learned, I never really picked up on the patterns of when to chain or when to stitch in first space; that all effects the edge.
    3. Pay attention to how the stitches look: Study the stitch from the front, the back, and the top. This will help you recognize where you are in your work, where to place a stitch, help you with stitch counts, and tell you when you’ve made a mistake
    4. Not counting stitches: You will catch mistakes earlier on if you keep up with counting stitches.
    5. Learning how to hold the yarn, the project, and the hook: Experiment with what feels comfortable to you once you’ve got a basic feel for single crochet.

Bonus: Video tutorials

This section contains video and text descriptions of 2 more stitches. While still considered to be part of the suite of foundations stitches everyone who crochest should know, these are more complex than the single crochet.

Half double crochet

  1. After completing your starting chain (with 1 loop on your hook), YO. 2 loops should be on your hook.
  2. Insert your hook in the 3rd chain from your hook. This creates a chain 2 turning chain.
  3. YO and pull the yarn through the starting chain space. 3 loops should be on your hook.
  4. YO and pull through all 3 loops. You are left with 1 loop on your hook. One half double crochet stitch has been completed.
  5. YO.
  6. Insert your hook into the next space.
  7. Repeat steps 3–6 until you have no more spaces left in your row.
  8. Once at the end of the first row, you will need to chain 2 and turn your work. This is different from the single crochet stitch.
  9. Instead of crocheting into the first stitch like we did for single crochet, the turning chain will count as the first stitch. Skip 1 and half double crochet in the 2nd stitch space.
  10. Continue the half double crochet stitch, working in rows until you’ve reached your desired length.

 

Double crochet

  1. After completing your starting chain (with 1 loop on your hook), YO. 2 loops should be on your hook.
  2. Insert your hook in the 4th chain from your hook. This creates a chain 3 turning chain.
  3. YO and pull the yarn through the starting chain space. 3 loops should be on your hook.
  4. YO and pull through the first 2 loops only. 2 loops should now be on your hook.
  5. YO and pull through the last 2 loops. You are left with 1 loop on your hook. One double crochet stitch has been completed.
  6. YO.
  7. Insert your hook into the next space.
  8. Repeat steps 3–7 until you have no more spaces left in your row.
  9. Once at the end of the first row, chain 3 and turn your work. This is different from the single crochet stitch.
  10. Instead of crocheting into the first stitch like we did for single crochet, the turning chain will count as the first stitch. Skip 1 and double crochet in the 2nd stitch space.
  11. Continue the double crochet stitch, working in rows until you’ve reached your desired length.

 

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